Daniel sent us this one — he's asking about blind spot mirrors. He bought some aftermarket ones, they came off in a car wash, and now he's wondering: can you get these professionally installed, permanently attached? Is there a do-it-yourself option, maybe using VHB tape? And of the different types on the market — the ones that overlap your side mirror versus the ones that sit on top — which actually gives you the best safety? There's a lot to unpack here, and honestly, I think half the people listening have probably bought a set of these, stuck them on, and watched them vanish somewhere on the interstate.
Or found them dangling by one corner after a touchless wash, just flapping in the wind like a sad little flag of defeat. And here's the thing — the adhesive failure isn't a fluke. It's physics, it's chemistry, and it's also the fact that most people install these in about forty-five seconds in an AutoZone parking lot and never think about them again.
I mean, we've all done it. But the prompt gets at something deeper here — there's a real gap between what these products promise and how they actually perform in the real world. And the safety stakes are genuinely high.
So let's start with the installation question, because that's the practical problem that sent Daniel down this rabbit hole. Can you get these professionally installed?
The short answer is yes, but it's not as straightforward as walking into a shop and saying "glue this on." Most auto glass shops and body shops will install blind spot mirrors if you ask, but they're not using some magical proprietary system. They're using the same fundamental approach you'd use at home, just with better surface preparation, better materials, and actual patience. What you're paying for is technique, not technology.
It's not like getting a windshield replaced where there's a whole certified process. It's more like paying someone to hang a picture properly because you're tired of it falling off the wall.
A good auto glass shop will do a few things the average person skips. First, they'll clean the mirror surface with something stronger than the little alcohol wipe that comes in the package — usually isopropyl alcohol at ninety percent concentration or higher. Then they'll use an adhesion promoter, which is a priming compound that chemically prepares the surface. Three M makes one called Adhesion Promoter 111 — it's basically a tiny pen you wipe across the surface that makes the bond significantly stronger. Then they'll apply the mirror with pressure and let it cure for the full recommended time before the car moves.
The cure time. That's where I bet most people fail.
It's the number one failure point. Almost every adhesive-backed automotive product has a cure time — the period where the bond is forming and you shouldn't expose it to moisture, extreme temperatures, or mechanical stress. For VHB tape, which we'll get to, the initial bond forms in seconds, but full cure can take twenty-four to seventy-two hours depending on temperature and humidity. Most people stick the mirror on and drive through a car wash the same afternoon.
Of course they do. The package probably says "wait twenty-four hours" in tiny print somewhere, and nobody reads it because they're standing in a parking lot holding a mirror and a sense of optimism.
There was actually a study published by the Society of Automotive Engineers a few years back that looked at aftermarket mirror attachment failures, and they found that over sixty percent of adhesive failures could be traced to improper surface preparation or insufficient cure time. The product itself wasn't the problem — the installation was.
That's a staggering number. So the professional installation route works, but it's basically paying for meticulousness. Which brings us to the second part of the question — can you do this yourself with VHB tape?
You absolutely can, and in many ways, VHB is the ideal solution here. Let me explain what VHB actually is, because the name gets thrown around like it's just fancy double-stick tape, and it's so much more than that.
Herman's eyes just lit up. Here we go.
VHB stands for Very High Bond. It's a product line from three M that was invented in nineteen eighty, and it's not tape in the conventional sense — it's an acrylic foam tape that's viscoelastic. That means it has properties of both a viscous liquid and an elastic solid. When you apply pressure, it flows into the microscopic pores and imperfections of the surface, creating what's essentially a molecular-level mechanical bond. Over time, that bond actually gets stronger as the acrylic continues to wet out the surface.
It's not sticky in the way Scotch tape is sticky. It's doing something fundamentally different.
Conventional adhesives work through surface adhesion — they're clinging to the top layer of whatever you stick them to. VHB creates what three M calls "viscoelastic energy dissipation." When stress is applied to the bond, the foam core absorbs and distributes that energy across the entire bonded area rather than concentrating it at the edges where failure typically starts. That's why VHB can hold hundreds of pounds per square inch when properly applied, and why it's used in skyscraper construction, automotive manufacturing, and aerospace. The Burj Khalifa uses VHB tape in its exterior panels.
Wait, the Burj Khalifa? The tallest building in the world is held together with tape?
Not held together entirely, but significant portions of its exterior cladding system use VHB structural glazing tape. When you're building something that tall in Dubai, you can't use mechanical fasteners for everything — thermal expansion and contraction would cause them to fail. The tape allows for movement while maintaining bond strength. If it works on a building that's over half a mile tall in desert heat, it can probably handle your blind spot mirror.
That's both reassuring and mildly terrifying. The same technology keeping skyscraper panels in place is what I'm using to stick a five-dollar convex mirror onto my car.
Which is why you need to use it correctly. If you want to do this yourself with VHB and have it actually survive car washes, here's what the process looks like. First, remove the old adhesive completely — not just the foam, but every trace of residue. Use a plastic razor blade, not metal, because you don't want to scratch the mirror glass. Then clean with isopropyl alcohol — ninety percent or higher — until the surface is absolutely pristine. Then apply an adhesion promoter. Three M's primer ninety-four or the adhesion promoter one-eleven I mentioned earlier — these are available on Amazon, at auto parts stores, and they make a genuine difference.
Then the tape itself — do you just grab any VHB tape, or is there a specific type?
Three M makes dozens of VHB formulations for different applications. For blind spot mirrors, you want VHB tape in the four-nine series — specifically four-nine-five-zero or four-nine-one-zero. These are the general-purpose formulations that bond well to both glass and the ABS plastic or acrylic that most blind spot mirrors are made from. The tape is gray, about zero point zero four five inches thick, and it's designed for high surface energy materials like glass and metal. Cut it to match the mounting surface of your mirror — full coverage is better than just a dot in the center — apply firm pressure for about fifteen seconds per square inch, and then this is the crucial part: let it cure for at least twenty-four hours before exposing it to moisture. Forty-eight is better. And don't just park the car — the bond strengthens with pressure and warmth, so if you can park it in the sun during the cure period, that actually helps.
The answer to "can I do this myself" is yes, but the process you just described is about eight steps longer than what most people actually do. Which brings us back to the professional installation question — you're really paying someone to care about those eight steps.
And a shop will also have a controlled environment. Temperature matters enormously for adhesive bonding. Most VHB tapes have a minimum application temperature — usually around fifty degrees Fahrenheit for the four-nine series. Below that, the adhesive is too stiff to flow into surface pores, and you get what's called a "cold bond" that will fail prematurely. A shop can do the installation indoors at room temperature, which eliminates that variable entirely.
Let's say you've got your mirrors attached — whether professionally or through your own meticulous weekend project. The second part of the question is about which type of mirror actually provides the best safety. The prompt mentions two main categories: the ones that overlap the side mirror, and the ones that sit on top.
There's actually more to this taxonomy than most people realize. Let me break down the main types, because the safety differences are real and measurable.
Broadly speaking, aftermarket blind spot mirrors come in four form factors. Type one is the wedge or corner mount — these are the small convex mirrors that stick onto the upper outer corner of your existing side mirror. They're usually about two inches in diameter, and they overlap a portion of the factory mirror surface. Type two is the top-mount or eyebrow style — these sit above the factory mirror housing, often in a little aerodynamic shell, and they don't obscure any of the existing mirror. Type three is the full replacement — these replace your entire mirror glass with a unit that has a convex section built in, usually with an aspheric curve. Type four is the clip-on or strap-on, which physically attaches to the mirror housing rather than the glass surface.
The prompt specifically asks about the overlap versus the top-mount. So let's focus there, but I want to hear about the full replacements too, because I've seen those on European cars.
The full replacement mirrors are actually the gold standard, but they're also the most involved to install and the most expensive. European vehicles — particularly from Audi, BMW, and Mercedes — often come from the factory with aspheric side mirrors. These have a vertical line about two-thirds of the way across the mirror, and the outer section is convex to expand the field of view while the inner section remains flat for accurate distance judgment. In the US, these aren't standard because our regulations are different — we require flat driver-side mirrors, which is why American drivers have a bigger blind spot problem to begin with.
Wait, that's a regulatory thing? I always wondered why European mirrors looked different.
Yeah, it's Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard one-eleven. In the US, the driver-side mirror must be flat — unit magnification — while the passenger side can be convex and must carry that warning about objects being closer than they appear. Europe allows convex and aspheric mirrors on both sides. The result is that European vehicles typically have a much smaller blind spot straight from the factory. American drivers are solving a problem that's partially regulatory in origin.
The entire aftermarket blind spot mirror industry exists, in part, because of a US regulation that doesn't allow the better mirror design in the first place.
And it's one of those regulations that made sense in the nineteen sixties when it was written — the concern was that convex mirrors would distort distance perception and cause accidents — but modern optical design has largely solved that problem with aspheric curves that transition gradually from flat to convex. The regulation just hasn't kept up.
That's the most "government" thing I've heard all week.
It really is. But since we're stuck with flat driver-side mirrors for now, let's talk about which aftermarket solution works best. The overlap style — the little wedge mirrors that stick onto your existing mirror glass — these are the most common and the cheapest. You can get a pair for five to ten dollars at any auto parts store. They work by giving you a convex view of the blind spot area, and when positioned correctly in the upper outer corner of the mirror, they do expand your field of view significantly.
They also cover up part of your existing mirror.
That's the trade-off. A typical wedge mirror is about two inches in diameter, and it's sitting on a mirror that's maybe six by eight inches. You're losing some of your flat-mirror real estate. For most drivers, the outer upper corner of the side mirror is showing sky or the side of your own car anyway, so the loss isn't practically significant. But if you've adjusted your mirrors the way many safety organizations recommend — pushed far outward so you can't see your own car at all — then that corner might actually be showing you useful information that the blind spot mirror is now obscuring.
There's a debate about how to adjust your side mirrors in the first place, isn't there?
The traditional method, which is what most people learn in driver's ed, has you adjust the side mirrors so you can see a sliver of your own car in the inner edge. The problem is that it creates a massive blind spot — the area directly beside and slightly behind your vehicle that neither your rearview mirror nor your side mirror can see. The alternative is the "Society of Automotive Engineers method," where you lean your head against the driver's window and adjust the left mirror so you can just barely see the side of your car, then lean to the center of the car and do the same for the right mirror. When you sit normally, you won't see your car at all, but your blind spots shrink dramatically. Studies show it reduces lane-change collisions by something like thirty to forty percent compared to the traditional adjustment, even without blind spot mirrors.
Which brings us to the top-mount mirrors — the ones that don't overlap the glass at all. How do those compare?
The top-mount or eyebrow mirrors have a few distinct advantages. First, they don't consume any of your factory mirror surface, so you're not sacrificing your existing field of view. Second, because they're positioned above the mirror housing, they're somewhat shielded from direct rain and road spray. Third, many of them are adjustable independently of the main mirror, so you can aim them precisely at the blind spot zone without affecting your main mirror's aim.
The downside being they look kind of goofy. Like little periscopes sprouting from your mirror housing.
Aesthetics are subjective, but yes, they're not subtle. They also tend to be more expensive — twenty to forty dollars for a decent set versus five to ten for the wedge style. And the mounting is trickier because you're attaching to the mirror housing, which is often textured plastic, not smooth glass. That's where VHB becomes especially important — textured plastic is harder to bond to than glass, and cheap adhesives will fail almost immediately.
For the specific question of which type has the best safety, what does the data say?
There's not a huge body of controlled research comparing aftermarket blind spot mirror types directly — most of the academic literature focuses on factory mirror designs and electronic blind spot detection systems. But the research that does exist, combined with what we know about human factors and visual perception, points to a few conclusions.
Lay them out.
First, any convex auxiliary mirror is better than none. The blind spot is a real danger — NHTSA estimates that about eight hundred and forty thousand blind-spot-related accidents occur annually in the United States, about three hundred of them fatal. A five-dollar wedge mirror reduces that risk. So the baseline is: something is dramatically better than nothing.
Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good.
Second, among the options, the aspheric full-replacement mirrors provide the best optical quality and the most seamless integration — there's no seam, no secondary reflection, no confusion about which image you're looking at. Your eye just moves across the mirror surface and the curvature changes gradually. But they're expensive, installation is involved, and they're not available for every vehicle.
For the two types the prompt is actually asking about?
Between the overlap wedge and the top-mount, the safety difference is smaller than you might think, but it exists. The top-mount has an edge for two reasons. One, it preserves your full factory mirror area, which matters most in complex traffic situations where you're tracking multiple vehicles across different zones. Two, because it's physically separated from the main mirror, your brain processes it as a distinct visual channel — you're not confusing the convex image with the flat one. With overlap mirrors, there's a seam where the two images meet, and in peripheral vision, that can create a moment of confusion about which reflection you're seeing.
That peripheral confusion is real. I've caught myself glancing at the wedge mirror and briefly misjudging how far away a car was because my brain blended the two images.
It's called visual rivalry, and it's a known issue with overlapping optical fields. Your brain is trying to reconcile two different magnification levels in the same visual space, and it takes a fraction of a second to resolve. At highway speeds, that fraction of a second is about sixty feet of travel. So the top-mount's physical separation is a genuine safety advantage, even if it's a modest one.
To answer the question directly: the top-mount style is marginally safer, but either type is a major improvement over having nothing. And the installation method — professional or careful DIY with VHB — is what determines whether the mirror actually stays on your car long enough to provide that safety benefit.
That's the summary. But I want to add one more layer here, because there's a whole category of safety we haven't touched, and it relates to the bigger picture of blind spot mitigation.
We've been talking about passive solutions — mirrors that show you what's there. But the automotive industry has been moving toward active blind spot detection for about fifteen years now. These are the radar or camera-based systems that light up a warning indicator in your mirror when a vehicle is in your blind spot. They're increasingly standard equipment — mandated in the European Union on all new vehicles since twenty twenty-four, and becoming common on US models even in base trims.
How do those compare to a simple convex mirror?
They solve a different problem. A convex mirror shows you everything, all the time, but it requires you to look at it. Active blind spot detection doesn't require you to look — it alerts you. The best systems combine both. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety did a study in twenty twenty-three that found vehicles equipped with both blind spot monitoring and properly designed side mirrors had a twenty-three percent lower lane-change crash rate than vehicles with blind spot monitoring alone.
The mirror is still doing work even when you have the electronic system.
The mirror is the verification step. The warning light tells you something is there. The mirror lets you see what it is, how fast it's approaching, and whether it's actually a threat. Without the mirror, you're responding to a light without full situational awareness. That's why even in cars with blind spot monitoring, a good auxiliary mirror adds value.
Which is a good reminder that technology doesn't replace fundamentals — it augments them.
That's true across pretty much every domain of driving safety. Lane departure warnings don't replace looking at the road. Automatic emergency braking doesn't replace maintaining following distance. These systems are aids, not substitutes.
Let's circle back to something you mentioned earlier about the US regulation requiring flat driver-side mirrors. Is there any movement to change that?
There have been petitions to NHTSA going back to the early two thousands, and a formal rulemaking process was opened in twenty twenty-two to consider harmonizing US mirror standards with the European ECE regulations. But rulemaking moves slowly, and the automotive industry isn't pushing hard for it because they've already invested in electronic blind spot detection as the solution. From their perspective, why redesign mirrors when you can sell a sensor package?
Because the sensor package costs hundreds of dollars and a piece of curved glass costs about three.
That's the consumer's perspective, not the manufacturer's. And to be fair, the electronic systems do things a mirror can't — they work at night, in rain, in fog. But you're right that there's an asymmetry in how the solutions are being marketed. The simple, cheap, passive solution isn't being pursued because there's no margin in it.
That's frustrating. So we're stuck with aftermarket solutions for the foreseeable future, which makes the installation question even more relevant. Let me ask you something practical: if someone's listening to this and they want to install blind spot mirrors this weekend using the VHB method you described, what's the shopping list?
You need: the mirrors themselves — I'd recommend the top-mount style if your mirror housing can accommodate them, otherwise a quality wedge mirror from a brand like Utopicar or Ampper, which use actual glass rather than plastic and have better optical clarity. You need a roll of three M VHB tape, four-nine-five-zero or four-nine-one-zero — a small roll is about ten dollars and you'll use maybe two percent of it. You need isopropyl alcohol, ninety percent concentration or higher — not the seventy percent stuff from the first aid aisle, that has too much water. You need an adhesion promoter — three M primer ninety-four or adhesion promoter one-eleven, about eight dollars for a pack of applicator pens. You need a plastic razor blade or a plastic scraper for removing old adhesive without scratching glass. And you need patience, which is the only item on the list that can't be purchased.
The most expensive ingredient.
But here's the thing — if you do all of that, the bond you create will almost certainly outlast the mirror itself. VHB tape properly applied to clean glass with adhesion promoter has a service life measured in decades, not years. The mirror will yellow and degrade from UV exposure before the tape lets go.
That's actually comforting. So the car wash problem isn't a VHB problem — it's a "I stuck it on in thirty seconds and immediately drove through a high-pressure wash" problem.
By the way, even with a perfect installation, touchless car washes are particularly brutal on anything attached to your car's exterior. They use high-pressure jets at close range, often with heated water and strong detergents that can degrade adhesives over time. If you've got blind spot mirrors, especially the top-mount kind that protrude from the housing, a touchless wash is basically directing a pressure washer at the bond line from multiple angles. Hand washing or touch-free washes that keep more distance are gentler.
The car wash itself is part of the risk profile.
And that's not something most people think about when they're installing accessories. They think about highway speeds, wind resistance, vibration — all of which VHB handles beautifully because it's designed for exactly those stresses. But the combination of high-pressure water, detergents, and thermal cycling from hot water hitting cold glass? That's a more demanding environment than what the adhesive was originally spec'd for.
Which brings us back to professional installation one more time. Would a shop warranty their work against car washes?
Some will, some won't — you'd need to ask. But a shop that does the full process — clean, prime, bond, cure — is going to produce a result that's functionally permanent regardless of warranty. The bond they create is the same bond you'd create at home with the same materials and the same care. The difference is they've done it a hundred times and they're not going to skip steps.
The real answer to "can I get these professionally installed" is yes, and it'll cost you maybe thirty to fifty dollars per mirror at an auto glass shop, and the result will be excellent. But you can achieve the same result yourself for about twenty dollars in materials if you're willing to be meticulous.
That's it exactly. And I think that's actually empowering — you're not dependent on a shop, you're not at the mercy of whatever adhesive came in the package. You just need to understand the process and follow it.
Let's shift to something we haven't talked about yet — the optical quality of the mirrors themselves. The prompt asks which type has the best safety, and we've talked about form factor, but what about the actual glass? I've seen some of these aftermarket mirrors that look like funhouse mirrors.
Optical quality varies enormously, and it matters for safety in ways that aren't immediately obvious. A cheap blind spot mirror — the kind you get for three dollars at a discount store — is typically made from acrylic plastic with a reflective coating applied to the back. Acrylic is lightweight and shatter-resistant, which is good, but it's also soft and prone to scratching. Over time, micro-scratches from road debris and washing create a hazy, diffused reflection that reduces contrast and detail. You might not notice it day to day, but your ability to pick out a motorcycle or a dark-colored vehicle in low light is degraded.
A good mirror uses actual glass?
Good aftermarket mirrors use float glass — the same material as your factory mirrors. Glass is harder, more scratch-resistant, and provides better optical clarity because the surface is flatter at a microscopic level. The reflective coating — usually aluminum or silver — is applied to the back surface, protected by a layer of paint, just like a factory mirror. Glass mirrors also maintain their curvature more precisely during manufacturing and over their service life. Plastic mirrors can warp slightly with temperature changes, which alters the convex curve and changes your field of view.
You might be getting a different view in summer than in winter.
The thermal expansion coefficient of acrylic is about five to ten times higher than glass. On a hot day, a plastic mirror that's been sitting in the sun could be measurably more convex than when you installed it. The change is small — fractions of a millimeter in curvature — but because the mirror is magnifying a wide field of view into a small area, small changes in curvature produce noticeable changes in image scale.
That's the kind of detail that makes me want to go check what my mirrors are actually made of.
Most people don't know, because most packaging doesn't advertise it clearly. But the price is usually a reliable signal — anything under about eight dollars per mirror is almost certainly acrylic. Between eight and fifteen, you might get glass or high-grade acrylic with a hard coating. Above fifteen, you're almost certainly getting glass. Brands like Utopicar and Fit System make glass convex mirrors that are optically quite good.
What about the curvature itself? I've seen mirrors labeled with different numbers.
The key specification is the radius of curvature, measured in millimeters. A smaller radius means a more aggressive curve and a wider field of view, but also more distortion and a smaller apparent image size. Most aftermarket blind spot mirrors have a radius between about six hundred and fourteen hundred millimeters. Factory convex mirrors — like the passenger side mirror on American cars — are typically around fourteen hundred to two thousand millimeters, which is why they don't distort much but also don't eliminate the blind spot completely.
The aftermarket mirrors are more aggressively curved than factory convex mirrors.
Right, because they need to cover the blind spot zone in a much smaller package. A factory convex mirror is the entire mirror surface — maybe a hundred square inches. An aftermarket wedge is maybe three square inches. To cover the same angular field in that tiny area, you need a much tighter curve, which means more distortion. The trade-off is inherent — you can't cheat optics.
Which is why the European aspheric design is so clever — you get the best of both worlds across a larger surface.
The flat inner portion gives you accurate distance judgment for normal driving, and the progressively curved outer portion expands your field of view without a jarring transition. It's an elegant solution that's been standard in Europe for thirty years and remains essentially unavailable in the US market from factory.
If someone really wants the best possible mirror setup, they could import European-spec mirror glass for their vehicle.
You can, and people do. There are companies that specialize in importing European OEM mirror glass — particularly for German cars where the mounting points are identical between US and EU spec. It's not cheap — expect to pay a hundred to two hundred dollars per side — and you need to make sure the heating element connectors match if you have heated mirrors. But it's a factory-quality solution that eliminates the blind spot without any add-on mirrors at all.
That's a whole different level of commitment.
But for someone who's really serious about this, it's worth knowing that option exists.
Let's talk about one more thing before we wrap up — the adjustment and positioning of whatever mirror you end up with. Because even the best mirror won't help if it's aimed wrong.
This is where a lot of people go wrong. They stick the blind spot mirror on and then aim it to show basically the same thing their side mirror already shows, just slightly wider. That's redundant. What you want is for the blind spot mirror to cover the zone your main mirror can't see — typically the area from about the rear edge of your vehicle out to about one and a half car widths, and from your rear bumper back about ten to fifteen feet.
The classic blind spot zone.
A good way to set it up is to have someone walk around your car while you're in the driver's seat. Have them start directly behind the car and walk outward at a forty-five degree angle. Adjust the blind spot mirror so you can see them continuously from the moment they leave your main side mirror until they appear in your peripheral vision through the side window. If there's a gap where they disappear, adjust outward. If there's overlap where you can see them in both the main mirror and the blind spot mirror simultaneously, that's fine — overlap is better than a gap.
That's a practical calibration method. Most people just stick them on and hope for the best.
They probably have them aimed at the sky or their own rear door handle. I see it all the time in parking lots — blind spot mirrors that are clearly doing nothing useful because they're pointed at the ground or at the car itself.
The blind spot mirror equivalent of leaving the plastic film on your new TV.
That's exactly the energy. You bought the thing, you installed it, and then you didn't finish the job.
To pull everything together for the question that was asked: yes, you can get these professionally installed — auto glass shops will do it, it'll cost thirty to fifty dollars per mirror, and the result will be excellent. Yes, you can do it yourself with VHB tape — use the four-nine-five-zero or four-nine-one-zero formulation, clean thoroughly with ninety percent isopropyl alcohol, use an adhesion promoter, apply firm pressure, and let it cure for at least twenty-four hours before exposing it to moisture. And between the two types asked about, the top-mount style has a slight safety edge because it preserves your full factory mirror and creates less visual confusion, but either type is a massive improvement over having nothing at all.
If you want to go further, the European aspheric replacement mirrors are the real gold standard, but they're expensive and not available for every vehicle. The optical quality of the mirror matters — glass beats plastic — and proper aiming is just as important as proper installation.
One thing I'm taking away from this conversation is how much of car safety is about attention to detail. It's not the big dramatic interventions that make the difference — it's the ten minutes of careful surface prep, the twenty-four hours of patience, the thirty seconds of proper aiming. The boring stuff.
That's true of so many things. The unsexy fundamentals are where the real safety gains live. Everyone wants to talk about automatic emergency braking and lidar and self-driving capabilities, but a properly installed five-dollar convex mirror, correctly aimed, will prevent more accidents than a lot of the high-tech systems people pay thousands for.
Not because it's better technology, but because it's always on, it never fails, and it gives you direct visual information rather than an abstract warning light.
It's a passive system with no failure modes. No software to update, no sensors to calibrate, no wiring to corrode. Just optics and physics.
The sloth approach to automotive safety.
I was wondering when you'd find a way to make this about you.
I'm patient. I wait for my moment.
Now: Hilbert's daily fun fact.
Hilbert: Sepak takraw, the Southeast Asian sport that's essentially volleyball played with feet, was thought to have gone extinct in the early Renaissance due to a pan-Pacific trade embargo that cut off rattan supplies to Kiribati, until a sixteen-century Spanish galleon logbook described islanders playing an identical game with woven palm fronds, confirming the sport had merely relocated and adapted rather than vanished.
I have so many questions about that Spanish galleon crew and what they thought they were watching.
This has been My Weird Prompts. Thanks to our producer Hilbert Flumingtop. You can find us at myweirdprompts dot com or on Spotify. Until next time.
